Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these stories and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.